Article summary
We bust the most common misconceptions about fencing costs, materials, and maintenance.
- Category:
- local
- Read time:
- 3 min
- Published:
- 13 December 2024
- Written by:
- My Homes Fencing Expert
Quick answer: a few fencing myths cost Auckland homeowners real money — that the cheapest quote is the best deal (it usually means a lower spec), that all timber posts are the same (in-ground posts must be H4/H5, not H3.2), that concrete alone stops rot (drainage matters as much), that neighbours never have to share fence costs (the Fencing Act often means they do), and that any fence up to 2m is always consent-free (retaining and front boundaries change that). Let's clear these up.
There's a lot of fencing folklore out there, and believing the wrong bit can lead to a fence that fails early or a nasty surprise. Here are the myths worth busting.
Myths About Cost and Materials
The biggest myth is that the cheapest quote is the best value. In fencing, a much lower price almost always means a lower spec — shallower posts, wider spacing, or timber not rated for the job — which costs more when it fails early. A fair, itemised mid-range quote built properly is usually cheaper over the fence's life. Related is the myth that 'all treated timber is the same': posts in the ground need H4 (or H5 on wet sites), while H3.2 is only for above-ground use and will rot early if buried.
Another is that maintenance-free means cheap-forever. Aluminium, PVC and SmartWall are genuinely low-maintenance but cost more upfront; timber is cheaper to install but needs re-staining. Neither is 'best' — it's a trade-off between upfront cost and ongoing upkeep.
Myths About Installation and Longevity
A persistent myth is that setting posts in concrete alone stops them rotting. Concrete gives strength, but if it holds water against the timber it can actually speed rot — drainage and keeping the post base able to shed water matter just as much. Similarly, people assume a fence that looks fine is fine; in reality a fence dies from the posts up, so a fence can look solid while the posts are quietly rotting at ground level.
There's also the DIY myth that fencing is simple, so it's always cheaper to do yourself. On a short, straight, easy run it can be — but once you add tool hire, concrete, disposal, and the risk of rework on Auckland clay or a shared boundary, the saving often shrinks or disappears.
Myths About Rules and Neighbours
Many people believe you never have to share a fence cost with a neighbour — but under the Fencing Act 1978, adjoining owners are generally expected to contribute to an 'adequate' boundary fence, via the fencing-notice process. Assuming you're on your own (or that your neighbour must pay for a premium fence) both get it wrong.
The other big rules myth is that any fence up to 2m is always consent-free. Standard side and rear boundary fences up to 2m usually are exempt, but front boundaries are typically limited lower, and a fence combined with a retaining wall, or on a special-character or heritage site, can need consent. When in doubt, it's worth checking before you build — which is exactly what we do before quoting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Usually not. In fencing a much lower price typically means a lower spec — shallower posts, wider spacing or lower-grade timber — that costs more when it fails early. A fair, itemised mid-range quote built to spec is generally better value over the fence's life.
Not on its own. Concrete gives strength, but if it holds water against the timber it can actually speed rot. Good drainage, the right H4/H5 timber, and shedding water away from the post base matter just as much as the concrete.
Often yes — the Fencing Act 1978 generally expects adjoining owners to share the cost of an 'adequate' boundary fence via the fencing-notice process. You can't force them to pay half for a premium upgrade, but assuming you're entirely on your own is a common myth.
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